By Dennis Linden – - July, 2011
July’s featured recipe is truly an editable midsummer night’s dream turned into delicious reality by Don Shank, chef/owner of the Rhododendron Café located on scenic Chuckanut Drive, near the small town of Bow in Washington State.

Chef Don Shank Chef Don’s Ingredient Challenge was to take advantage of the summer fruit season by creating a main course dish with fresh nectarines playing a starring role. It turns out that this month’s “Ethnic Odyssey” cuisine theme at the Rhododendron is “Island Cooking: Caribbean, South Pacific, Hawaii, and More”. So the chef’s challenge was made easy since a version of his Grilled Pork Tenderloin with Nectarine Chutney was already scheduled for the restaurant’s menu.

California nectarines are at their peak of the season this month and will continue to be in plentiful supply into September. The word nectarine means “sweet as nectar” and is derived from the German word for the fruit that translates “nectar-peach”. The fruit’s smooth skin has propagated a myth that the nectarine is a cross between a peach and a plum. Botanically, the fruit is a peach variety with its own distinctive taste; however, the gene that causes peach skin to be fuzzy is recessive in nectarines rather than dominant. It’s a shy peach!

Interestingly, there are more than 200 different varieties of this tasty fruit harvested throughout the summer that go to keeping supermarket NECTARINE displays well stocked. However, retailers seldom identify these varieties by name, which is really a missed marketing opportunity. These varietal names are very poetic and many are two-word descriptions of when each variety will peak in flavor like April Glo, Spring Sweet, July Red, August Fire, Summer Jewel and September Fire. Each variety has about a 10-day harvest window when sugars are just right. This unheralded parade of varieties, all having a slight variation in color, size and sugar content, pass in and out of retail produce departments without the consumer noticing anything but consistency of availability. Still, all nectarine growers have their own favorites, similar to a knowledgeable wine connoisseur.

Organic white nectartinesChef Don’s nectarine chutney really makes this dish special. Use firm-ripe nectarines so the fruit will hold up during the cooking process. In fact, the next time that I prepare this chutney I will cut the fruit into slightly larger pieces so that the bright color of the nectarine has a chance to add more visual contrast to the plate.

Also, the amount of chutney in the accompanying picture for this article is staged neatly on top of the stack so as not to cover the other two components of the dish for photographic purposes. The home chef should not feel constrained to this small portion per serving, meaning that the first bite is going to prompt another helping of chutney anyway, so add a few extra spoonfuls when plating so as not to delay the enjoyment of the second bite!

As the chef suggests in the recipe, pay close attention to the reduction process of the chutney ingredients. Brown sugar does have a tendency to scorch, which would change the flavor dramatically. The most convenient way to peel a nectarine is to score the tip end with an “X”, blanch in boiling water and then transfer immediately into an ice water bath. Since Chef Don recommends using firm-ripe nectarines, extend the normal 40-second blanching time for soft ripe fruit to at least a full minute. This detail was overlooked in my first batch and made a relatively simple peeling process into a very messy project!

The co-star of this dish is definitely Chef Don’s coconut rice. The recipe suggests either Jasmine or Basmati for this component of the dish; accept no substitutes. The aromas of both these long-grain varieties add a unique flavor to the dish. Each has a pleasant botanical bouquet, which is apparent even raw and reaches full potential once cooked. Both have a nutty taste, though Basmati is a bit stronger because it has been aged. I used the subtler Jasmine because it just seemed like a good pairing with the coconut milk. Soaking Jasmine rice beforehand will decrease the cooking time from approximately twenty minutes to about ten minutes. Once cooked, you will notice that the rice does not stick together like white or brown rice. The variety tends to be light, fluffy and slightly chewy. The day after the dish tasting, I reheated a mix of the chutney and rice, without the pork, for a quick lunch. Simply delicious!

While the pork tenderloin is a perfect match with all the other fresh flavors in this dish, I have also since tried this recipe using boned chicken thighs that had been grilled, cut into long strips and then plated just like the pork. Simply delicious times two!

There has been good food prepared from the restaurant’s historical building on the Chuckanut Drive scenic byway, on and off by a string proprietors, since the early 1900s. For the last 27 years, Chef Don and his wife Carole have succeeded in making the place shine even brighter with their culinary creativeness served in a garden-casual atmosphere. Visitors from all over the Pacific Northwest who are out for a Sunday drive, or any other day of the week, on this famed highway of unmatched beauty get the extra bonus of either starting or finishing the excursion at what is simply called “the Rhody” by loyal patrons. Although, for those of us who live in the area, all roads in the region lead to the Rhody!

Grilled Pork Tencerloin with Nectarine ChutneyGrilled Pork Tenderloin with Nectarine Chutney

(Serves 4 people)

Ingredients

Pork Marinade
1½ – 2 lbs. Pork Tenderloin
½ cup fresh orange juice
1 Tbsp. balsamic vinegar
1 Tbsp. olive oil
1 tsp. minced garlic
½ tsp. each salt and pepper
½ tsp. ground coriander
Dash of cayenne

Preparation:
Trim pork of silver skin and excess fat. Place whole tenderloins in marinade for 1 – 2 hours, turn once or twice. Grill pork over medium-high heat for 10 – 15 minutes; let rest for at least 5 minutes to allow juices to set. The meat will continue to cook while resting.

Chutney:
In stainless 2 – 3 quart saucepan combine the following:
1 cup apple cider vinegar
¾ cup brown sugar
1 cup Perfect Sweet onions, small diced
1 tsp. whole cumin
1 tsp. mustard seed
2 tsp. whole coriander seed
½ fennel seed
½ tsp. each salt & pepper
A dash of chile flakes, to taste
4 cups nectarines (3-5 firm-ripe fruits), peeled, diced into small or large pieces

Preparation:
Combine all ingredients except nectarines. Reduce over a medium burner until thick and syrupy, about 15 minutes. Watch carefully so as not to scorch. When syrup is ready, reduce heat and add fruit – leave uncovered so juice from fruit can evaporate while cooking. Stir over low heat until fruit is tender and the syrup is slightly thickened. Serve warm or cold.

Coconut Rice:
1 ½ cup jasmine or basmati rice
1 can coconut milk (13.5 oz)
1 cup water
1 tsp. salt
A pinch of cayenne, to taste
½ cup toasted shredded coconut (divided in two)
1 Tbsp. fresh basil, chopped
1 Tbsp. cilantro, chopped
1 Tbsp. mint, fine diced
2 Tbsp. Italian parsley, minced

Preparation
Combine ingredients in a 3 quart saucepan, cook over medium heat for 10 minutes, stir lightly and turn down the heat to low and cook until liquid is absorbed. Allow to rest off heat, covered for 5 minutes and then fluff and serve.

Plating:
Slice across the grain of the tenderloin, arrange over the coconut rice and top with the chutney, garnish with remaining coconut. Enjoy!

Ingredients:

1/2 oz (about 1 Tbl) anchovies – minced fine
2 whole eggs
1 Tbl minced garlic
2 Tbl red wine vinegar
2 Tbl fresh lemon juice
1/4 tsp salt
1/2 tsp pepper
3/4 cup pure olive oil

Preparation:

Combine all ingredients except olive oil in blender or food processor with metal blade
Turn machine on and drizzle oil in through the top

Toss romaine leaves with dressing, fresh grated parmesan and croutons. Garnish as desired

Ingredients:

Pasta – your choice really – Spaghetti is a classic but penne and others work well too!
2 oz pancetta (Italian bacon) or 4 slices regular bacon – sliced thinly
3 – 4 Tbl olive oil
4 oz ham in julienne strips( 1/4" by 2") Using prosciutto ham is preferred but you could even substitute Italian sausage as well
2 -3 tsp (or more) of fresh minced garlic
4 scallions – thinly sliced
4 eggs – lightly beaten
1/2 cup half and half (optional)
~ 1/2 cup to 3/4 cup parmesan cheese
salt and pepper to taste ( on this lots of pepper adds a nice component but be careful of the salt as the bacon and cheese both are salty.

Preparation:

This is the easy part. Cook the pasta – meanwhile fry the bacon or pancetta in olive oil in a large fry pan or wok until almost crisp. Add the ham, garlic and any other protein ingredients you like*
Toss ingredients until completely heated through.
Have your other ingredients prepared and ready to go and then drain the pasta and add to the pan ( this is why you need a large pan).
Remove the pan from the heat and pour and sprinkle in the other ingredients and toss with tongs or a large spoon. The idea is to make a sauce with the eggs and the cream hlps in this – but is not absolutely necessary. Do not scramble the eggs but keep them wet.
Plate and top with the extra parmesan and any other garnish ( flat leaf parsley or nice steamed vegetable.
* Variations besides sausage could include grilled chicken, shrimp, or your choice.

Ingredients

Pork Tenderloin

You can substitute chicken or beef tenderloin

Sherry

2-3 Tbl per serving

Cabrales Cheese

alternately, a good quality Gorgonzola or blue-cheese

Shallots or yellow onion

finely chopped

Heavy Cream

Salt & Pepper

To taste

Butter or Canola Oil

A note on variations. the basic ingredients in this can be changed but the traditional dish is with Pork tenderloin, sherry, and Cabrales. If you substitute Chicken or Beef Tenderloin it will still be very tasty. If you substitute Gorgonzola or another blue cheese (stilton, roquefort, etc.) it will still be good but Cabrales does have its own unique characteristics.

Preparation

It is all very simple.

Dredge slices of pork tenderloin or meat of choice in seasoned flour – salt and pepper will do. Fry in butter &/or a little canola oil. when you turn it over after it is lightly browned on one side – add some finely chopped shallots or onion and fry another minute or so.

At this point add the sherry – about 2- 3 Tbl per serving and allow alcohol to cook off. Add Cream and Cabrales and a little salt and pepper to taste.

You can turn the heat down and cover and cooking time depends on thickness of the meat and the meat itself. ( Beef Tenderloin – you might want to just cook medium rare.)

3/4 cup onion, julienned
1 cup – diced butternut squash
4 large links Cooked Italian sausage – cut lengthwise and 1/2 “ slices
1 Apple or Pear (cored and diced)
1/2 cup toasted peeled and broken hazelnuts
1/2 cup chicken stock
Parmesan cheese
fresh sage for garnish

fresh or dried pasta – cooked al dente just before serving

Preparation:

Saute onions in olive oil
Add Butternut Squash pieces, Italian Sausage, garlic-sage butter (see recipe below)
Stir in hazelnuts, Apple (or pear) pieces, chicken stock.
Season with dash of salt & pepper
Toss with pasta, 
garnish with Parmesan cheese & fresh sage

Garlic Sage Butter

4 oz butter, softened
1/4 cup minced garlic
2 Tbl fresh sage minced
1/4 cup dried parsley
1/2 tsp salt
1 tsp lemon juice

Combine in Mixer

Bon Appetit !

1/2 cup soy sauce
2 Tbl lime juice
1/2 minced jalapeno pepper (reserve remainder for peanut sauce)
1 1/2 tsp minced ginger
1 1/2 Tbl brown sugar
1 1/2 Tbl minced garlic
1/2 tsp each salt and pepper

Spicy Peanut Sauce

1/4 cup soy sauce
2 Tbl lime juice
1 tbl minced cilantro
remaining half of the minced jalapeno
2 tsp grated ginger
1/4 ccup brown sugar
3/4 cup peanut butter
6 oz coconut milk
1/4 tsp salt and a dash of cayenne

Marinate the chicken breasts for 1/2 hour then grill when ready for Lunch 

Serve on good quality burger bun or bread of choice – spread with mayo or aioli as desired. serve with lettuce, tomato, and onion and Spicy Peanut Sauce.

Bon Appetit !

Ingredients:

4 boneless Chicken Breasts or (8) 4 oz slices of boneless Pork Loin
1/2 cup flour seasoned with 1 tsp each salt and pepper
2 Tbl oil and 2 Tbl butter (for sautéing)
1/2 cup thin julienne shallots or Walla Walla onion
1/4 cup brandy or Calvados
1/3 cup chicken stock
1/3 cup apple cider or juice
1 apple – cored and sliced (Braeburn or Johnny Gold)
1/3 cup heavy cream
salt and pepper to taste

Dredge the Breasts or Pork in the seasoned flour and fry in hot butter and oil in a large fry pan (Use 2 pans if necessary – so as not to crowd the pan.) When the meat is golden brown – turn over and add the brandy (stand back if cooking on gas as it will flame).

Add onions or shallots and sauté for another minute – then add the stock and cider. Cover and lower heat. Cook until breasts or pork are almost cooked through (Cooking time depends on thickness and size)

Remove cover and add apples and cream – Remove meat when ready and top with tender apples. Reduce sauce as necessary and pour over the Chicken/Pork.

Bon Appetit !

Start with:

2 Tbl olive oil

2 cups diced or julienne onion

1 cup diced celery

1 cup diced peppers (red, green, &/or yellow)

Saute onions and when soft add the garlic and other veggies – saute until tender and add all the following :

1 quart diced tomatoes – canned or fresh

1 quart tomato sauce

1 cup red wine

1 cup water

3 cups clam or fish broth

2 Bay leaves

1 Tbl fresh minced oregano

1/2 tsp each: seed, black pepper, rosemary

pinch chili flakes

1 tsp salt or to taste

Combine and simmer for 15 – 20 minutes and either cool for later use – or add seafood at this time.

This recipe makes about 1 gallon of stock – which should be enough for 12 or more large bowl servings.

Enjoy!

You’ll need: (per serving)

6 to 8 oz boneless fish filet (halibut and cod work great)
1 cup all purpose flour combined with 1 tsp each salt, pepper, and cumin
Diced Tomato
1/4 wedge of lemon
dash or 2 of ground cumin

Preparation

Dredge fish in flour mix,  Saute in hot olive oil in fry pan. After a couple of minutes (depends on heat and thickness of fish) turn fish over – should be golden brown. Give it a minute then add the tomato. lemon juice and cumin. 

Lower heat and cover briefly.  Check fish to cook through.

Serve with rice

Enjoy!